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Women with significant skin imperfections: port wine
stains, scars, pigmentation irregularities, and rough
skin frequently ask the experts at NeoStrata, makers
of the CoverBlend line of corrective cosmetics, how
to best camouflage those imperfections to achieve more
natural-looking skin.
The CoverBlend team prepared the following tips for
specific camouflaging "challenges" to help
women achieve the most natural looking effect possible
and gain confidence and self-esteem in the process:
Challenge: Dull, lifeless facial skin
Tip: A totally opaque face in not a natural look
since even the most flawless of complexions have differing
shades of color. The easiest way to "put the life
back" into the skin is to add a sheer color from
a tinted powder or bronzer. Applying with a brush, lightly
dust on the cheeks, tip of nose, chin and a sweep across
the forehead for a more natural appearance.
Challenge: Makeup looks heavy and/or cakey
Tip: When applying a concealing makeup, the lighter
the hand, the better. It is more effective to apply
two light layers if needed than one heavy, thick layer.
Blend, blend, blend, for the most natural look. Pay
special attention to the creases of the nose, inner
eye, jaw and hairline for smoothing and blending as
these areas are susceptible to caking.
Challenge: Dark marks (e.g., port wine stains)
on light complexions
Tip: With a cosmetic sponge, apply a thin layer
of makeup over the entire face (or area) as a sponge
lays down the makeup lighter than the finger. Then with
the finger, in a dab and pat motion, apply makeup sparingly
over the darkened area to cover. Use a brush for the
hard-to-reach areas like crevices and around the eye
to apply makeup. Dab and pat the area with the finger
or sponge to blend (never rub or try to smooth with
your fingertip as it will pull off makeup in the process).
If desired (or as directed) set with powder. NOTE: the
face will appear more natural with makeup covering the
whole face, not just the mark.
Challenge: Marks under the eyebrow and/or
into the hairline
Tip: Most often people will try to avoid these
areas, and where they may be camouflaged everywhere
else, it still shows through under an eyebrow or on
the scalp. It's best to dab and pat the concealer through
the hair until you achieve the proper coverage. Then,
with a small moustache comb or toothbrush, gently stroke
the makeup out of the hair. When needed, go back with
an eyebrow pencil or mascara and recolor the hair.
Challenge: The eye area
Tip: The eye area is somewhat challenging due
to the contour of the under eye, lid and crease. It's
best to apply makeup with a very small brush, working
in small strokes to blend. In women, it's effective
to re-line the eye using an eye pencil. For dark eye
circles specifically, choose a concealer shade that
matches the skin tone or is slightly lighter (too light
gives raccoon eyes). Dab and pat, never swipe on the
makeup. Two light coats are better than one thick coat.
Let set for a moment, and blend edges. The biggest mistake
made with under eye circle concealing is swiping on
the makeup back and forth, causing the finger to lift
off the skin all the makeup that has been laid down.
Challenge: Makeup on highly textured (bumpy)
areas
Tip: Blending on highly textured skin is critical,
as the makeup will tend to accentuate the uneven skin.
Using minimal makeup, apply with finger and work into
the area so the makeup doesn't merely sit on the surface
creating more texture. Go light on the powder, if you
feel you must use any.
Challenge: Body Makeup
Tip: Re-creating the natural "flaws"
in the skin (mottling) for camouflaging bruises, scars,
tattoos, pigmentation irregularities, port wine stains,
etc.
Color matching is more difficult on the body than the
face. Look at any area of your body and you'll see that
the skin tone is not completely flawless. There are
varying shades, spots, freckles and mottling. For natural-looking
camouflage, it's best to re-create the natural mottling
of the skin. After concealing, take a different shade
of makeup and try to re-create the skin around it. A
cotton swab will allow you to stipple and mottle the
surface. This is a technique that is easiest to master
by just letting go and playing with the colors. Once,
mastered you'll achieve an amazingly natural-look.
Challenge: Creating symmetry
Tip: Camouflaging is an ideal way to create a
balance or symmetry on the face when needed to correct
imperfect lips, eyes, etc. Once the area is camouflaged,
you can redefine uneven lips by "drawing"
a corrected line with a lip pencil and filling in with
lip color. The same technique can be applied in the
eye area and eyebrow using an eye or eyebrow pencil.
For more information about camouflaging cosmetics,
please visit Neostrata.
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